petek, 28. junij 2013

Reportaža s čipkarskega izleta Po pomlad in čipke v zamejstvo / Reportage from a lace trip For spring and lace across the border

Po deževnem maju, ki se nikakor ni hotel ogreti in zadišati po pravi pomladi, se je sobotno jutro, 8. junija 2013, rodilo v soncu, ki je obetalo čudovit pomladni dan. Na parkirišču za avtobuse pred ljubljansko Halo Tivoli smo se zbrale klekljarice iz Ljubljane in okolice, ki smo se odpravljale na strokovni čipkarski izlet v zamejstvo. Preden smo se podale na pot, smo na ljubljanski železniški postaji »pobrale« klekljarice iz Zasavja, ki so se v Ljubljano pripeljale z vlakom, na avtocestnem izvozu za Pivko so se nam pridružile še klekljarice z Notranjske. Pot do meje je minila v izmenjavi svežih čipkarskih novic in kot bi mignil smo se znašli pred galerijo Antiche Mura v središču Tržiča (it. Monfalcone), kjer je bila na ogled razstava Čipkarske šole Gorica (it. Scuola Merletti di Gorizia) z naslovom Čipke – zgodba se nadaljuje…
 
Razstavljena so bila čipkarska dela treh vrst: obleke, izdelane v okviru projekta Naravna prepletanja, čipkarska dela, zasnovana ob razstavi Ustavljeni čas in kolekcija pokrival s čipko.
 
V okviru projekta Naravna prepletanja so nastale tri obleke: Reka, Flora (Rastlinstvo) in Favna (Živalstvo). Od kod njihovemu avtorju, italijanskemu modnemu oblikovalcu Fabiu Feroceu, navdih zanje, verjetno ni potrebno posebej pojasnjevati. Vzorce za čipke za vse tri obleke je zrisala Miriam Mauri, sklekljali so jih učenci in učiteljice Čipkarske šole Gorica.
 
Drugi sklop razstavljenih del so predstavljali izdelki, ki so jih učiteljice Čipkarske šole Gorica izdelale za razstavo Ustavljeni čas - Goriška zastavljalnica skozi čas (1831 - 1929). Navdih zanje so bile dragocenosti, ki so jih ljudje v finančnih stiskah zastavili v zameno za posojilo. Mnogi svojih dolgov niso nikoli poravnali in tako so ti predmeti ostali v zakladnici zavarovalnice. Po njih so bili zasnovani čipkasta obroba, ogrlici, zapestnica, več parov uhanov, sponka za lase, večerna torbica in ovitek za rokovnik. Zaradi odboja svetlobe od steklenih vitrin, v katerih so bila dela razstavljena, nisem uspela narediti nobene kvalitetne fotografije, vendar vam toplo priporočam, da si razstavo ogledate, če bo še kje na ogled.
 
Največ naše pozornosti so bila na razstavi deležna pokrivala s čipkami, ki jih je ustvarilo devet učenk pod vodstvom učiteljic. Izdelave pokrival so se lotile zelo celostno: naredile so pokrivala in čipke zanje, še prej pa so same pobarvale večino uporabljenega materiala z različnimi naravnimi barvili: slezom, bršljanom, čebulnimi olupki, kurkumo, ognjičem, borovnicami, vinom in še z marsičem drugim.

Pokrivalo iz shantung svile, obarvane z bršljanom. Avtorica: Miriana Bertocchi. / Headgear made of shantung silk and dyed with ivy. Author: Miriana Bertocchi.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Na razstavi nas je prijazno sprejela Katia Braida iz Čipkarske šole Gorica, ki je vsem udeleženkam našega izleta podarila katalog z razstave, sama pa sem bila deležna še posebnega darila – cvetličnega lončka s sobnimi kalami, ki zdaj krasijo kuhinjsko okno našega doma in me vztrajno izzivajo k ustvarjanju. Kdo ve, morda bo nekega dne skušnjava dovolj velika, da bom namesto kuhalnice v roke vzela svinčnik in bo namesto kosila na mizi nastal vzorec za klekljanje z motivi kal ;-).
 
Iz Tržiča nas je pot vodila do Devina (it. Duino), točneje do Devinskega gradu (it. Castello di Duino). Pred vhodom nas je pričakal gospod Franko, ki nas je v simpatični, primorsko pojoči slovenščini popeljal proti gradu. Našo pozornost je najprej pritegnil grajski vrt, s katerega je čudovit pogled na Tržaški zaliv in na ruševine starega devinskega gradu. Po legendi naj prav pod njimi plenice svojega sinka prala lepa Vida, ko jo je črn zamorec z obljubami o lepšem življenju zvabil v širni svet.
 
Z vrta smo vstopili na grajsko dvorišče, ki ga je napolnjeval opojen vonj cvetoče vzpenjavke, in prisluhnili pripovedi gospoda Franka o bogati zgodovini gradu. Prvi devinski grad je bil zgrajen že v 11. stoletju, v bližini današnjega, vendar so od njega ostale le ruševine, ki pričajo o hudih spopadih s Turki in Benečani. Novi grad je nastal v 13. stoletju na ruševinah nekdanje rimske postojanke in je bil tekom stoletij večkrat povečan, preurejen in restavriran.
 
Zgodovina gradu je neločljivo povezana s plemiško družino Torre e Tasso (Turn und Taxis), ki je v sorodu s številnimi pomembnimi evropskimi plemiškimi družinami. Devinski knezi so se odlikovali kot vojskovodje v spopadih s Turki, bili so pobudniki številnih obnovitvenih del na Goriškem ter potrpežljivi diplomatski posredniki med Habsburškim cesarstvom in Beneško republiko. Ustanavljali so šole, samostane in druge inštitucije, znani so bili tudi kot kulturni meceni. Devinski grad je gostil številne pomembne goste, a si posebno pozornost med njimi zasluži češki pesnik Rainer Maria Rilke, ki je očaral grofico Mario, o čemer priča obsežna ohranjena korespondenca med njima. V Devinu je začel pisati prve elegije, ki jih je kasneje poimenoval Devinske in jih posvetil mladi grofici. Grad je še vedno domovanje devinskih knezov in pomembno kulturno središče regije, kjer se dogajajo številni koncerti, razstave, konference in druge prireditve.
 
Po vodenem ogledu smo imeli nekaj prostega časa, ki smo ga izkoristili za vzpon na grajski stolp, s katerega je čudovit pogled na tržaški zaliv in grajsko dvorišče na eni ter na kopensko zaledje na drugi strani. Nekateri so se spustili tudi v vojaški bunker pod gradom, ki ga je nemška organizacija TODT naredila pod gradom med II. svetovno vojno, z razširitvijo srednjeveškega skrivnega rova iz gradu. Služil naj bi obrambi ob morebitnem izkrcanju zavezniških sil na tržaški obali.
 
Pogled na grajsko dvorišče s stolpa. / View on the courtyard from the castle tower.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Ker nam je ostalo še nekaj časa do odprtja razstave v Bazovici, smo se odpeljali še do gradu Miramare. Tu nas je pričakalo pravcato poletno vzdušje. Plaža, ki se razteza od Trsta do gradu je bila polna ljudi, ki so se nastavljali soncu. Nekateri so se celo kopali in obžalovala sem, da tudi jaz nisem s seboj vzela kopalk. Sva se pa zato s Tonko Černilogar, učiteljico klekljanja iz Ljubljane, ohladili z namakanjem nog v prijetno hladni vodi. Drugi so čas izkoristili za ogled gradu Miramare, sprehod ob obali ali za sladkanje s sladoledom oz. ledeno kavo.
 
V zamejstvo smo šli iskat pomlad, a smo našli poletje. / We went across the border to find a spring, but we found the summer.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Popoldne smo se z obale podale v notranjost. Pred Gospodarska zadrugo v Bazovici (it. Cooperativa Economica a Basovizza) so  nas pričakale klekljarice Slovenskega kulturnega društva Lipa z mentorico Ivjano Štranj. Ob ogledu razstave Ples v maskah nam je povedala zanimivo zgodbo o tem, kako je nastala in se razvijala ideja za razstavo. Ideja za izdelavo mask po motivih dvanajstih mesecev se je rodila že ob izdelavi čipk za koledar društva leta 2010. A ker se jim je dvanajst mask zdelo premalo za samostojno razstavo, so izdelale še pripadajoče pahljače. Ob tem sta njihova domišljija in drznost dobili krila in odločile so se izdelati še obleke. Najprej so naredile raziskavo o zgodovini oblačenja, nato so se lotile snovanja oblek. S svojim znanjem in spretnostjo jim je bila pri tem v veliko pomoč izvrstna šivilja Silvana Mergiani, ki je opravila tudi levji delež pri izdelavi oblačil. Nastala je razkošna razstava, za katero je bila dvorana zadruge v Bazovici skoraj premajhna.
 
Takole opravljeni naj bi zaplesali meseca avgusta, ko poletne noči ožarjajo zvezdni utrinki. Avtorica vzorcev za klekljanje je Ivjana Štranj, čipke sta sklekljali Marija Pogačnik in Jasna Prunk. / Here you can see how to be dressed for Masken Ball in August, when summer nights are illuminated with shooting stars. Author of lace patterns is Ivjana Štranj, lace is made by Marija Pogačnik and Jasna Prunk.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Po razstavi smo se zadržale še v prijetnem klepetu in okušanju kulinaričnih dobrot, ki so jih za nas pripravile zamejske klekljarice. Vožnja domov je minila v izmenjavi vtisov in ugotovile smo, da je za nami čudovit dan, ki ga moramo kmalu ponoviti.
 
Več fotografij z izleta si lahko ogledate v spletnem albumu (kliknite sem).
 
 
After a rainy May, which didn’t want to heat and smell of the real spring at all, the Saturday morning, 8th of June 2013, was born in the sun, which promised a beautiful spring day. On the parking place for buses in front of Ljubljana Tivoli Hall lace makers from Ljubljana and surrounding gathered to take part in lace tour across west Slovene border. Before we set on a journey, we picked up lace makers from Zasavje region (central Slovenia), who came to Ljubljana by train, at the railway station, on the motorway exit for Pivka lace makers from Notranjska region (south-west Slovenia) joined us. A journey to border with Italy passed in the exchange of fresh lace news and before we know it we found ourselves in front of the gallery Antiche Mura in the centre of Tržič (It. Monfalcone), where an exhibition of Gorizia Lace School (It. Scuola Merletti di Gorizia) titled Lace - the story continues ... was exbitied.

There were three types of lace works exhibited: dresses made in the project Natural interlaces, lace works, designed for the exhibition Stopped time and collection of headgears with lace.

For the project Natural interlaces three outfits were created: River, Flora and Fauna. What inspired Italian fashion designer Fabio Feroce to design them, is probably no need to explain. Patterns for lace for all three dresses were drawn by Miriam Mauri, lace was made by students and teachers of Gorizia Lace School.

The second set of exhibits was lace works made by teachers of Gorizia Lace School, produced for the exhibition Stopped Time - Gorizia pawnshop through the time (1831 - 1929). Inspirations for them were treasures that people in financial distress pawned in return for the loan. Many of them never returned their debts and so these items remained in the treasury of the pawnshop. Inspired by them a lace trim, two necklaces, a bracelet, several pairs of earrings, a hair clips, an evening bag and a cover for a diary were designed. Due to reflection from the glass of display cases in which the works were exhibited, I could not do any high-quality photos, but I strongly recommend you to visit an exhibition if it will be on display elsewhere.

Most of our attention on the exhibition got headgears with lace created by nine students under the guidance of teachers. Producing of headgears was embarked on a very comprehensive way: they produced hats and lace, but they also dyed the majority of the material by themselves with different natural dyes: mallow, ivy, onion peels, curcuma, marigold, blueberries, wine and many other things.

On the exhibition we were kindly accepted by Katia Braida from Gorizia Lace School, who donated an exhibition catalog to all of us. I got a special gift also – a flower pot with indoor calla lilies, which now adorn a kitchen window at our home and challenge me constantly to creation. Who knows, maybe someday temptation will be big enough that I would rather take a pencil in a hand than a wooden spoon and make a lace pattern instead of lunch ;-).
 
From Tržič (It. Monfalcone) path led us to Devin (It. Duino), to be precise – to Duino Castle. At the entrance we were greeted by Mr. Franko, who led us in a cute, singing, littoral Slovene dialect to the castle. Our attention was attracted by castle garden with a breathtaking view of the Gulf of Trieste and the ruins of the old Duino castle first. By an old Slovene legend, right underneath a Beauty Vida washed her sonny’s diapers, when the Black Nigger lured her into the world with promises of a better life.

From the garden we entered to the courtyard, which was filled with intoxicating scent of flowering climbers, and listened a narration of Mr. Franko about rich history of the castle. First Duino castle was built in the 11th century already near the present-day one, but today just its ruins testified about hard conflicts with the Turks and the Venetians. New castle was built in the 13th century on the ruins of the former Roman outpost and has been increased several times over the centuries, renovated and restored.
 
The history of the castle is inextricably linked to the noble family of Torre e Tasso (Thurn und Taxis), which are related with many important European noble families. Duino princes distinguished themselves as military leaders in many conflict with the Turks, they were the initiators of many renovation works in Gorizia region and patient diplomatic intermediaries between the Habsburg Empire and the Venetian Republic. They established many schools, convents and other institutions and were well known as cultural patrons. Duino Castle hosted many important guests, but a special attention Czech poet Rainer Maria Rilke deserve. He charmed the Countess Maria, what is evident by preserved reach correspondence between them. He began to write the first elegies there, later named Duino Elegies, and dedicated them to the young countess. The castle is still a home of Devin princes and an important cultural centre of the region, where a number of concerts, exhibitions, conferences and other events happen.

After a guided tour we had some free time, which we used to walk up to the castle tower, with a breathtaking view of the Gulf of Trieste and the courtyard on one side and the hinterland on the other. Some of us went down in the military bunker beneath the castle, which was built by the German organization TODT during the World War II, with the extension of a secret tunnel from the medieval castle. It was mean to serve German army in case of Allied landing on the coast of Trieste.

Since we still had some time before the exhibition in Bazovica was open, we drove to Miramare Castle also. Here we were greeted by a real summer atmosphere. Beach from Trieste to the castle was full of people who exposed themselves to sunlight. Some even swim in the sea, and I regretted that I didn’t take my swimwear with me also. Therefore Tonka Černilogar, lace teacher from Ljubljana, and I cooled down by soaking our feet in the pleasantly cool water. Others use that time to visit Miramare Castle, walk along the coast or sweeten with ice cream or ice coffee.

In the afternoon, we moved from the coast to the inland. Before the Economic Cooperative in Bazovica (It. Cooperativa Economica a Basovizza) we were greeted by lace makers from Slovene cultural society Linden with their mentor Ivjana Štranj. While looking their exhibition titled Masked Ball she told us an interesting story about how the idea for the exhibition was found and developed. The idea for the masks with motives of twelve months they got in 2010 already, when they made laces for calendar of their society. But as twelve masks seemed insufficient for a solo exhibition, they produced the corresponding fans. At the same time their imagination and boldness got wings and they decided to make outfits also. First, they made a research about the history of dress, and then they started to design clothes. An excellent seamstress Silvana Mergiani with her wide knowledge and skills has been taking a big assistance to them in that feat and has the lion's share in garment manufacturing also. The result was a luxury exhibition for which cooperative hall was almost too small.

After the exhibition we still retained in a nice chat with lace makers from Bazovica and tasted the culinary delights which they prepared for us. Drive to home passed in the exchange of impressions and we found out that we had a great day which we had to repeat soon.

More photos from the trip you can be find in the online album (click here).

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